We easily found our hotel, checked-in, and headed out to explore the city in the 20 degree weather-brrrr. We walked for what seemed like miles around the old town in search of a restaurant that was inviting and that was also still serving food at that late hour. We stumbled upon a restaurant (or 'restaurace' in Czech) called U Vejvodu which met our criteria. The Plzeňský Prazdroj or Pilsner Urquell (one of the delicious Czech beers) was cold and plentiful and the menu had something for everyone, ranging from traditional Czech food to chicken wings and chili con carne nachos. We were happy to be out of the car and happy to be exploring yet another new country. The conversation between the four of us is always lively and comes easy, so it was a wonderful evening eating, drinking, and laughing with good friends.
Czech beer and pretzels |
View of Prague Castle from the Charles Bridge |
St Vitus Cathedral |
St Vitus Cathedral |
Joel, Rick, Adam, Shea, and I making sure the castle guard doesn't smile |
Looking down the long stairway from the castle |
Rick and his Trdelnik snack |
Rick and I with Adam, Shea, and Joel enjoying the warmth inside the "Oldest Medieval Pub' |
View of Prague from the Charles Bridge |
The Astronomical Clock |
Delicious avocado shrimp soup with a fun presentation |
Pretending that we're rich with all of our Czech Koruna (equal to about $114 in this picture) |
The next morning (Sunday) we drove about an hour outside of Prague to the small town of Kutná Hora . It is the sight of the Sedlec Ossuary or the "Bone Church". I had to look up the definition of an ossuary - it's a 'depository for bones of the dead'. This particular building was a monastery founded during the 12th century. The ossuary was in the basement and it housed bones from victims of a plague in 1318 and then others throughout the years. Due to the large number of bones, a monk in the 1500's started stacking them in towering piles. In 1784 after the monastery was abolished, the church and surrounding cemetery were purchased by the Schwarzenberg family. In 1870, they commissioned a wood carver named Frantisek Rint to make some sort of order out of the multitudes of bones. Instead of just piling them neatly, he started making decorations. He created a large chandelier made from every bone in the human body that hangs ominously in the middle of the room. There are skulls and bones lining the walls in beautiful designs and he made a Schwarzenberg family crest. He created a large chalice that is on one wall and he signed his name in bones along with the date (1870) on the opposite wall as his last project. It is estimated that the remains of 40,000 people were used to decorate this small space. It was simultaneously one of the most haunting and one of the most beautiful things I have ever witnessed. It was exceptionally cold outside and the door to the ossuary was open, so it was freezing inside as well. As I stood there and quietly took it all in, I couldn't help but think that you would still feel an intense chill inside this place even on a stifling hot August day. You are surrounded by the bones of all of those lost souls and there is something profoundly eerie and serene all at the same time. I am so glad that we made the trip to see this once in a lifetime display.
So, what to do after looking at all of those bones? Eat, of course! We found a Bohemian tavern/restaurant in Kutná Hora called Dačický and it didn't disappoint. The atmosphere was wonderful as we tucked into a cozy corner booth. We ordered our beer and a giant platter of pork, potatoes, and sauerkraut and discussed the events of the day.
Pork knuckle, ham, sausage, sauerkraut, potato pancakes, and pickles all for us! |
We had a wonderful time in Prague and it is yet another city that we can't wait to explore when the temperatures are above freezing. I don't think that's asking too much, do you? We didn't even hit the tip of the iceberg (no pun intended) of the beauty and history that Prague has to offer, so we will be going back!